Shiretoko, Hokkaido

Tourists could find one of the richest nature in Shiretoko, a peninsula located in the east of Hokkaido ( above ). The peninsula is one of UNESCO World Natural Heritage sites and one of the most beautiful National Parks in Japan.

There are several volcanoes, several Onsen hot springs, many lakes and many waterfalls in Shiretoko, where live lots of wild animals such as whales, killer whales, dolphins, sika deers, brown bears, red foxes, seals, sea eagles, white tailed eagles and so on. Tourists visiting there would see some of them.

Shiretoko is sandwiched between the Sea of Okhotsk and the Pacific Ocean, both of which provide local fishermen with lots of seafoods. So many tourists enjoy eating various seafood dishes there.

Many tourists visiting Shiretoko could stay in Utoro, small town located in the western coast of the peninsula. Some companies operate sightseeing boat cruises which depart Utoro port from late April to October. Tourists on the boats could enjoy viewing landscapes of the western coast of the peninsula ( above ) - mountains, cliffs and waterfalls, which are far from easy to access.

Tourists on the cruise boats could see wild animals such as a brown bear ( above ). Lots of brown bears live in Shiretoko, some of whom are taller than 2 meters. Their population density in the peninsula is the highest in the world. So tourists, walking around forests/mountains, are expected to be extremely careful while tourists on the boats should not be anxious about dangerous encounters. They are very active especially from May to July.

Also dolphines, whales, seabirds, Sika deers and foxes could be spotted from the boats.

Before and/or after the sightseeing boat cruises, many tourists visit Shiretoko Goko ( Shiretoko Five Lakes ). The above photo shows the 1st lake. Many tourists enjoy viewing the beautiful landscapes of lakes, forests and mountains there. The access to the lakes is closed in winter through late November - late April.

There live many brown bears around Shiretoko Goko lakes. So elevated wooden path ( above ), 800 meter long and protected by an 7,000V elextric fence, offers visitors a safe walk to the 1st lake.

Also there is a ground pathway ( closed in winter ) around lakes. Visitors, walking along the ground pathway, would enjoy viewing various beautiful landscapes. However there are strict restrictions to walk along the ground pathway. Visitors are required to attend a lecture before walking as well as reservation is required and fees apply.

In addition, through 10th May - 31st July while brown bears are extremely active, visitors are only allowed to join the tour to walk along the ground pathway with registered guides.

Not only browm bears, but also other wild animals live around Shiretoko Goko lakes. The above photo shows a mother and a fawn of Yezo Sika Deer walking under the elevated wooden path. They were so sweet. However tourists were so anxious for the baby to grow up without being attacked by neighbouring bears.

"Utoro", the name of the town is derived from "Uturuchikushi", a word of the language spoken by the Ainu, an indigenous people. The word means that they walk between rocks, one of which is Godzilla Rock ( above ) standing near Utoro port.

Some more rocks stand near the port, one of which is Oronko Rock ( 60 meters high ), from the top of which tourists could enjoy viewing the town, mountains and the Sea of Okhotsk.

Ezo Red Foxes live all over Hokkaido and sometimes walk around towns. So tourists could see ezo red foxes in Utoro town ( as above ). Some people, who feel they are cute, could feed them. However shop owners in Utoro drive them away because their echinocossus worms could make people seriously sick. It is far from recommendable to feed them .

Beside Utoro Port, there is a restaurant run by wives of fishermen. The restaurant serves various kinds of seafood dishes as well as Ramen, Curry and Rice and so on. The above is a dried Kichiji, grilled, fatty and my favorite.

"Kichiji", which is generally called "kinki" in Hokkaido, is called "Memme" in the east of Hokkaido. Kichiji ( Channel Rockfish ) is one of luxury foodstuffs in Japan. It could be not so easy to eat Kichiji in the regions other than in Hokkaido.

Please note that the above-mentioned restaurant "Utoro Gyokyou Fujinbu Shokudo" is open through 8:30 am - 2:30 pm, closed through November-April. Credit Card NOT accepted.

Rausu is a town located on the eastern coast of Shiretoko Peninsula. The town has a fishing port which sightseeing cruise boats leave and enter. From the boats, tourists could enjoy viewing the landscape of the peninsula ( above ) as well as watching wild animals and birds.

Tourists on the cruising boat could see Killer Whales ( or Orca ) as above. It is said that as for killer whales, the waters near Rausu is an significant habitat area.

Killer Whales could be seen through May-July, Dall's porpoise through May-October, Sperm Whales through July-October, Minke Whales through May-July, Sea Eagles through January-March, White Tailed Eagles through January-March and Drift Ice in January.

Having lunch in Rausu town after sighseeing cruise would be recommendable. There in the town are some good restaurants, one of which is Shiretoko Shokudo, where I ate "Tokishirazu" ( summer-catch salmon ) grilled with salt ( above ).

Usually salmons are caught in autumn. However "Tokishirazu" salmons are caught in April-July. Compared with ones caught in autumn, "Tokishirazu" salmons are younger, soft and moderate in fat riding. They are suitable to be grilled with salt. Needless to say, in Rausu town tourists could enjoy many more kinds of good seafoods in various seasons.

As above, salmons caught in Spring-Summer are called "Tokishirazu", which means those who don't know suitable time. As far as concerned with salmons, "Tokishirazu" are appreciated.

Kombu ( edible kelp ) is essentially important to Japanese cuisine and Rausu is one of the suppliers of the highest quality Kombu in Japan. There in Rausu are some restaurants which serve Rausu Kombu Ramen ( above ), one of local specialty noodles in Japan.

Its noodles are made from wheat flour mixed with Kombu powder and its soup is made from shoyu ( soy sauce ) and Kombu Dashi ( Kombu broth ). Also the ramen is topped with chopped Kombu, shredded Kombu and a few more ingredients. Rausu Kombu Ramen is so popular among tourists in the town.